Saturday 27 October 2012

I'd rather be a rabbit than a sheep

Silly title but not sillier than "I'd rather be a sparrow than a snail", I feel. Anyway there isn't a day in the year when snails face snailageddon or sparrows fear to fly. For the sheeps of Morocco, yesterday was a dark day. There is, apparently, a special day (like Christmas but bloodier) when it is the duty of the faithful to buy a sheep, kill it, butcher it and eat it. As a committed carnivore, I heartily approve of people who eat meat having to see what it really means - ie killing the animal you want to eat. But to make such a song and dance about it? Only one person can cut its throat; someone else skins it (after the blower has blown the skin from the carcass); not entirely sure who butchers it but the ladies (of course) cook it.
On a lighter note, the air was full of smoke yesterday from the fires used to burn the sheeps heads. They do that on any patch of open ground. Chaps on motorbikes, donkey drawn carts and pickup trucks were charging round the neighbourhood shouting "annaaa" (I think) and collecting the skins and assorted bits from the households who had done the business on their moutons.
One is unable to purchase alchohol at all during the 3 day period so I have had to resort to Sancerre instead of beer after the visit of my good friend Grahame who necked all the beer. Who said a diplomat's life was easy?
Today in the supermarche to stock up on some essentials - the restaurants are also closed for the hols - I found that the meat counter consisted only of a whole sheep, half a sheep or an extremely large lump of sheep. Too much for the rogon jhosh I was intending.
I found a lone poulet though (which I ritually cut up at home)  It was dead and wrapped in plastic, of course. I took my purchases to the checkout, and, waiting there - for her mum probably - was a girl of 11 or 12 with a shopping trolley containing 1 item only, a whole sheep (skinned of course) - hooves up and barely fitting into the trolley. Wouldn't see that too often in Sainsbury's in Deal, I thought.
Funny old world.

Sunday 7 October 2012

smoked rabbit

A jolly nice week - in my opinion anyway. Met the President of the Moroccan Cricket Association - not with exactly the same status as president of the MCC but, I was impressed. The ambo invited me to a farewell dinner chez prez. Fantastic home cooked Moroccan grub impressed me too. Monday night was a reception on HMS Edinburgh in Casablanca. Drinking with sailors in Casablanca - so gay! And I use the word in its original and proper sense. And, some of the sailors were quite attractive young ladies. Our stupid driver got lost on the way there and on the way back. One navy chap questioned how one could get lost with Rabat on the coast, Casa on the coast - just keep the sea on your right!
So to this weekend and I'm invited to a night out with some Moroccans on Saturday. To set the scene, it's a big pub with several interconnected rooms and ours has about 60 people in it (nearly all men, of course) and a band. And everyone is smoking. Chain smoking. And probably more than one fag at a time. Though you do get olives and nuts with your pint. But it's smokier than a smoke filled room at a smokers convention with extra smoke being piped in through the AC. I needed several unnecessary visits to the loo and (and outside) to survive the evening. The band were cool though. Tom tom drums, very versatile keyboard and Morocco's answer to Carlos Santana. Some very exciting Santana style music (and a bit of Eric too) and the band are sporting Carlos pork pie hats. After the break, the band rips into the crowd's favourite stuff, the Rai. And of course, it's Aisha first. This is good stuff, I'm going to see if the Melody Maker would like me to write for them*. And if you've ever heard Rai music - Khaled, Cheb Mami etc - this was a different level. And so was the freakin volume! So now, my eyes and throat are being poisoned by smoke and my eardrums are about to start bleeding. But the music was fab. Rai with a Santana guitar - marvellous.
Clothes straight in the basket and a shower as soon as I get home. Somehow though, I can still smell smoke as i write this the next day. Worse than a Turkish Airlines flight 20 years ago. Merhaba arkadaslar!
* I hear the MM is now defunct.